Sylvain Peyrot, snail breeder, picks up snails in his greenhouse to prepare an order of Bourgogne snails on February 19, 2021, in Etrigny, central France. - Restaurants closed, markets cancelled, fairs suppressed: in Bourgogne, land of snails, many breeders that Covid-19 has deprived of prospects "have the knife to their throat", without being able to count on a government aid, that they judge unsuitable. (Photo by JEAN-PHILIPPE KSIAZEK / AFP)